Explore Zicatela Beach with tips on surfing, safety, sunsets, food, and the best time to visit Puerto Escondido.
I can still remember the exact moment I fell in love with Mallorca’s coastline. I was standing knee-deep in the warm Mediterranean Sea, coffee in hand, watching gentle waves roll onto the shore as the morning sun lit up the crystal-clear water. A local walking past noticed the smile on my face. “First time?” he asked. I nodded. “You’ll keep coming back,” he said with a grin. He was right.
That’s Mallorca in a nutshell. It doesn’t need to impress you with over-the-top attractions. Its beaches are naturally beautiful, wonderfully diverse, and completely unforgettable. If you’re planning a trip to this stunning Balearic island, The Best Mallorca Beaches, Ranked by a Local will help you discover the beaches that truly deserve a place on your itinerary, along with the tips I wish I’d known before my first visit
Anyway, What Is Zicatela Beach?
Zicatela Beach, located on Oaxaca’s Pacific coast in the town of Puerto Escondido, has the self-proclaimed moniker “the Mexican Pipeline” because of its ridiculously big and powerful breaking waves, while professional surfers drool and everyone else stays a safe distance away.
Not your postcard-perfect turquoise shoreline, where the tranquil waves meet your toes with only a flick of the leash. There’s no friendly smile on Zicatela; the waves here are rough, relentless and no apologies are given. But that’s also why it’s one of the world’s most popular surf destinations, where surfers from Brazil to California to Portugal to Australia come for bragging rights and a spritz of sea water.
And here’s the kicker nobody mentions in the brochures: Zicatela’s also become Puerto Escondido’s social place, its strip of shops, beach bars, boutique hotels, yoga sessions and other amenities, not to mention the restaurants that serve fish tacos so incendiary you’ll never settle for a taco anywhere else again. Seriously. I’ve been experimenting.
The Vibe: Surf Town Meets Bohemian Escape
Walking the main stretch in Zicatela is probably as close as you get to walking into a digital nomad movie where it all just so happened to end up in paradise. There’s a youngish crowd of barefoot dudes with longboards under their arms, expatriates with mezcal cocktails in the sand, and backpackers debating the best rooftop hostels.
Much more laid-back than the perfection of Cancún or Puerto Vallarta. Its appeal lies in its unpolishedness. It’s a bit grittier, in a good way like that friend you have that doesn’t tell you what you want to hear, but what you need to hear. The beach is an active one: you can always find a bonfire set-up and a guitar player; there may be a beachside yoga class with a sunset and a partner to hold your hands.
I had an hour lounging at a beach front restaurant, gazing at the sky transition across 6 colors of orange, as a dog, a very committed stray, settled in on the seat next to mine as if he was entitled to it. No one was trying to rush me, no one was pushing me towards “the next thing”. Just peaceful, in, exactly, that way that only “BeachyTown” doesn’t not-yet-stumbles-toward-being-discovered-yet.
Can You Swim at Zicatela Beach?
Fair enough, let’s face the real issue that affects your safety, since I would be doing you a disservice if I attempted to shy away from it.
You should know that Zicatera beach isn’t a good beach for swimming, either alone or with family and friends, especially for beginners. The same conditions that attract surfers make it a dangerous place for everyone else to try and swim, since there are dangerous waves, strong rip currents, a steep bottom gradient, and powerful break zones right off the shore.
Imagine this: most mellow beaches are a light high-five; Zicatela is a little too-forceful high-five that will temporarily spoil your drink. It is aggressive.
A few practical safety notes:
- He’s prone to rip currents. Their strength and density is passed upon them. When caught in one, the worst thing you can do is swim against it; instead swim the direction of its flow, then swim to the shore.
- Even the powerful shore break can be hazardous to the brave (or reckless) water lovers. Witnessed a fellow traveler who was spun like a sock in a dryer mere moments after walking beyond the ankle-deep water line.
- Lifeguards aren’t always present, so this isn’t a beach where you can assume someone else has your back.
- Looking for more tranquil water? Playa Carrizalillo and Puerto Angelito are just a short drive away and both are much gentler.
Cue honesty: I was a bit too over-exhilarated on the second day and went further than I probably should have. Guess what, next wave, and I was flailing under the sea, completely disorientated, my nose and eyes charged with salt, and my ego, well, shining brightly. I surfaced, full of laughter, mostly gratitude, but come to this beach, no one cares how good you think you are.
Who Should Visit Zicatela?
Reading all that safety I mentioned, and you could be thinking, “Huh; you just got me all concerned about this particular beach not being for regular people.” Nope.
Surfers as if you needed a reason. Zicatela boasts sublime surfing for novices and pros alike, so if you’re already an accomplished exponent or have the nerve to take on the most challenging surf in Mexico, you’ll be in surfing heaven. But if you’re a total rookie, there are much softer breaks not too far along the beachline (in fact, just around the corner from Playa Zicatela is Carrizalillo, which would be ideal for your initial lesson).
The Numbers Digital nomads and long-term travelers – Puerto Escondido has lurked its way into a famous spot to work remotely and Zicatela’s it. The town boasts trustworthy cafés with reliable WiFi, a thriving community and the chilling vibe that keeps most of us around for a week and end up never leaving.
Foodies at these beachfront restaurants really know how to deliver. I ate a grilled octopus under a chili-lime marinade here that I recall wistfully, for no reason at all.
Sunset chasers and Snappers If you don’t plan to leave dry land, you’re in luck because Zicatela Beach’s lengthy, expansive beach ensures great sunsets across the Oaxacan coast.
Not great for: honeymooners, peace-seekers. Also not that advisable for: young families (or children) hoping for ‘swim-all-day’ beachfront bliss. This isn’t a dig at Zicatela, it’s just not that sort of beach, and setting expectations otherwise could crush your daydreams.
Best Time to Visit Zicatela Beach
The tide is a little more significant here than it is at just about every other beach, since the surf changes as the seasons do.
May to September the largest and strongest waves are the top peak of surf and when Zicatela solidifies its “Mexican Pipeline” status. This is the time for the advanced surfer hard at it.
From November through April the surf tends to be more manageable and the weather not quite so wet making it easier for those who simply want the surf to be less assertive in bringing them back to the beach.
Rainy season in general is technically from about June to October, but it usually manifests as an hour-or-so long sprinkle in the late afternoon rather than all day rain outs. I secretly loved getting stuck in one of them. There’s something strangely peaceful about warm rain falling on hot sand, and when they pass the best part is the sunset.
My honest opinion? I headed over in October and scored a sweet compromise: less people, warm water, and interesting boogie-boarding waves without requiring headgear to actually sit on the beach.
Getting to Zicatela Beach
Puerto Escondido also has a tiny international airport (airport code PXM) with nonstop service from Mexico City and a limited number of U.S. cities a couple times a week. From the airport, it’s about a 10-15 minute taxi or rideshare into town, and Zicatela is fantastic from virtually any spot in Puerto Escondido as the town is fairly small.
If you’re up for an adventure (and not time-challenged), it is also possible to get to Oaxaca via the overland route from Mexico City, a very scenic yet truly long and twisty mountainous drive (picture great views and a fair amount of stomach churning). I’d recommend catching a flight unless you like mountain roads.
Where to Stay Near Zicatela
You’ve got options across every budget here:
- Budget/backpacker: Hostels on the main Strip have beds in dorm rooms and a communal atmosphere, sometimes with rooftop pools or bars that become the place to be in the evening.
- In the middle: Boutique hotels located a short walk (but not directly on) from the beach are what falls into that happy middle ground of affordable luxuries, not to mention the fact they generally have a pool to help you cool off in the midday heat.
- Luxury: A few high-end, design-focused properties located directly on the beachfront boast views of the ocean and beds significantly more comfortable than the one in my hostel room. I am convinced that my hostel bed wasn’t out to get my lower back.
What to Eat Around Zicatela
I could really go on another two thousand words here but I won’t.
Behind those beachfront palapas (beachfront restaurants with thatched roofs) is an ocean of plump fresh seafood – ceviche, soft fire-grilled fish, and some damn good shrimp tacos. A block or two inland, and even more traditional Oaxacan cuisine – mole so layered and spicy I would actually be all for its own Chinese-style passport stamp; and tlayudas big enough to be a family meal, but I ate every bit of one myself.
Advice from one who suffered for it: moderation is key with the mezcal. Oaxaca is the home of mezcal, and the local variety goes down easy, is tasty, and is much more potent than it appears.
Zicatela vs. Nearby Beaches: A Quick Comparison
If you’re torn between beaches in Puerto Escondido, here’s the short version:
- Zicatela large, surfing, vibrant bar scene, not suitable for swimming
- Playa Carrizalillo small, protected cove, less surfers, calmer water, more suitable for swim and beginners surf lessons
- Located in Arcos de Cajón. Puerto Angelito twin coves, shallow water, suitable for families
- Playa Marinero next to Zicatela, on a softer wave with something for everyone (a little calmer) Round away from the hustle of Zicatela, Playa Marinero sits.
To be honest, I think the wise thing to do is to stay close to Zicatela for the food and the energy, then make a short trip to Carrizalillo or Puerto Angelito when you want to swim.
Frequently Asked Questions About Zicatela Beach
Can a beginner surf at Zicatela Beach? No, you shouldn’t even go out in the water if you’re a beginner. The currents are too treacherous for anyone.
How far away is Zicatela from the town center of Puerto Escondido? It’s really just another part of the same coast you can walk from one to the other in around ten or fifteen minutes.
Can you learn to surf in Zicatela? Yes, even if many surf instructors will prefer to take absolute novices to much greener beaches for the lesson before building you up to the larger surf.
Do you think Zicatela Beach is crowded? It gets busier during the high season (May-September) and around the holidays. Still, it’s never quite as busy as some of the more mainstream beach places in Mexico.
Is Zicatela good for sunset? Can you see the sunset in Zicatela? Sure! And you should. It’s one of the most amazing spots to see the sunset on the whole of the Oaxacan coast.
Final Thoughts: Why Zicatela Stuck With Me
My hindsight lesson from Zicatela Beach was quite the revelation for a beach: not all beautiful things have to be fragile. There are places that require some respect before they reveal the best gift, the glowing sunsets, the electrical buzz, the feeling that you’ve actually arrived somewhere more tangible than a picture-perfect postcard destination.
I arrived anticipating beaches and left with painfully red shoulders, a healthy appreciation for rip currents, a belly full of the freshest seafood I’ve had in years, and a deep-seated desire to return. Not the sort of tell-tale signs of a good vacation, or what?
So pack the SPF, leave your blow up flamingo on the shelf, and check out Zicatela for yourself. Just, you know, don’t step past your knees in your first hour and have an I can’t believe I did that moment. Take it from me.
Additional Resources
- Top Destination Credibility Destination Authority, Travel Experts | Lonely Planet With Lonely Planet Top Destination Credibility Travel ExpertsLog in Sign up With Lonely Planet Top Destination Credibility Travel Experts The world’s leading travel guide publisher LONELY PLANET 100 Must-Haves for Your Trip of a Lifetime By Tom Hall Jul 20 2012223 minutes read The last yellow minibus enters the village for the day a gleam of hope.
- SurferToday noun niche expert for surf-specific technical. claims
