Visit Fjallabak Nature Reserve with confidence. Find road access, parking rules, top hikes, hot springs and the best season to go.
Fjallabak Nature Reserve is an extensive mountain-highlands area located in the interior of southern Iceland, covering the following regions of the country: South Iceland, Suðurland; Southwest, Vesturland and North west; Westfjords, Norðurland; Capital Region, and Eastern Regions, Austurland. It is considered as the most colorful of all the highlands in Iceland and is easily one of the 17 Rare, Unique Experiences You’ll Love in Iceland.
When I first saw a photo of Fjallabak Nature Reserve, I honestly thought it had to be photoshopped. How is it possible for hills right on top of each other to have these colours – pink, yellow and turquoise?. That stream must be a Photoshop tool too.
Nope. I looked to see.
One questionable image resulted in months of planning, (an inevitable) rental car I was concerned about, and what became one of the best weeks of my life. So here is the guide I would have liked to have received: what Fjallabak is, how to reach it without losing your mind (or your rental car deposit), what to do once you get there, and all of the errors I committed along the journey.
Quick Facts About Fjallabak Nature Reserve
- Location: Icelandic Highlands, south-central Iceland
- Date of establishment: 1979 as mentiond by the Environment agency of Iceland9.
- Size: about 44,600 ha (446 km2 ) entirely above 500 m.
- Known for: Land mannalega, the rhyolite mountains, the geothermal hot springs, the Laugavegur trail, the Eldgj a canyon
- Best time to go: Late June to early September (passes are typically open)
- Access: 4×4 truck on F-roads, highland bus or guided tour (and parking reservation at Landmammannalaugar in high season)
It‘s all about Fjallabak Nature Reserve isn‘t it?
Its name translates approximately as “behind the mountains” – an especially imprecise explanation of such a far-flung, untamed, wind-swept region by the standards of Icelandic toponyms. Fjallabak is an area of wilderness located in Iceland‘s central highlands. It is an unblunted wilderness of volcanic mountains and lava fields, pissing heat-holes and vast, deserted valleys.
IfThe south coast of Iceland is the greatest hits collection(waterfalls,black sand,glaciers),then Fjallabak is the B-side nobody knew about.Quirkier,quieter and much harder to get to.That‘s what keeps it charming.
I was a little confused on one of the terms initially. We all use the words “Fjallabak” and “Landmannalaugar” like they are interchangeable, but they are not. Landmannalaugar is the popular destination, the springs, the cabins and photo postcard views. Fjallabak is the entire park in the surrounding area. Think of it as bringing Landmannalaugar to the door of a large house.
What is the reason behind the mountains being so varied in colour?
The Environment Agency of Iceland states that the bland differential of colour is largely due to the rhyolite and obsidian of the highland, not least because the volcanoes have made the whole terrain by bias of geothermal heat. It appears that some painter has poured out his colors setting on the hillside and let them dry in the sun because of the broad differential of colour.
I actually burst out laughing the minute I found myself face to face with those slopes. I felt silly for ever doubting the photo. Standing there, it seemed the whole landscape was laughing at me too.
How to Get to Fjallabak Nature Reserve
Is a lot of fun and also where things tend to go wrong. Here are the options.
Option 1: Self-Drive (4×4 Required)
This is the most flexible, but least advisable. Access is by way of Highway F-roads that traverse the Icelandic highlands, and it is impossible to do so in a normal rental vehicle. As per Icelandic law, 4WD vehicles are not permissible to use on F Roads, and if renting a 2WD vehicle and taking it on one of these roads you could face a fine and lots of trouble with your car rental company.
The main routes through the reserve are:
- F208 (Fjallabaksleið nyrðri): The Fjallabak route in the north (along the road between Landmannalaugar and Skaftártunga).
- Sigöldu road (208): along this road there are numerous campsites and unsignposted tracks which lead to Landmannalaugar from the Sprengisandur road (F26)
- F225 Landmannaleið (Farnes): Depart Route 26, crosses Dómadalur and links to F208 near Frostastaðavatn
Either way, the final 2.5kms into Landmannalaugar is indeed on F224, when you are actually crossing two rivers just before reaching the road. The first crossing nearly killed me. The river was so seemingly serene and smooth that I sat by the river for about 10 mins watching a super jeep Ford F350(?) struggle to make it across before plucking up the courage to follow. A local gave me a good tip: watch the other vehicles crossing, go slow yourself, and turn back if you do not feel confident. The depth of the river from the snow melt or rain varies greatly from morning to afternoon.
Always check road.is for current information regarding the condition of the highland roads before you leave, or call 1777, the 24 hour line of the road authority. By far the best source of up to date information for this trip.
Don‘t Forget: Landmannalaugar Parking Reservations
This one can really throw many people off. To ease the overwhelming congestion of the daily access-road traffic jams to Landmanalaugar Landmannalaugar put into place a parking reservation system to gain access to the area. In 2026 Landmannalaugar accepted reservations for cars coming from 9am to 4pm from June 20 to September 13. Beyond this time, customers need not make reservations, though we collect a service fee on all cars in the parking lot.Parka normally opens reservations in the beginning of spring. The road fee varies a little from season to season so check in the year you‘re planning on visiting.
Option 2: The Highland Bus
However, if you would prefer not to curse as you try to drive a 4×4 through the glacial water then fixed schedule buses run from Reykjavik up to the highlands in the summer. The buses take you to Landmannalaugar and last about four hours. The bus will have no problem in crossing the roads and it is ideal for those walking in Laugavegur. No need to rent a car or plan your own trip.
Option 3: Guided Tours
In the summer there are the day tours and super jeep tours leaving from Reykjavik and the south. They are more expensive but they do have a driver knowledgable about the rivers and a guide who is able to show you round a lot better can make a stressful ride the best day of your trip.
The Best Time to Visit Fjallabak
Season is even more important than in almost every other place in Iceland. Snow and mud are likely to block mountain roads near the end of the winter for most of the time and these roads are usually open sometime between mid June and early July, depending of the snowmelt. The Icelandic Road and Coastal Administration releases opening date for every mountain road. Roads through conservation areas or similar frequently remain closed until the land is able to take up traffic from visitors. Roads through these areas are frequently again closed from September or October.
For most typical tourists, July-June the end of August will be the最佳a fabled period. If you want to avoid the rain, consider early September instead of August. You will face fewer wet hours and see the autumn colors spread across the rainbow mountains.
A little warning: The ‘summer’ in the highlands varies greatly; I arrived at the beginning of July, and ice on the roof of my tent woke me. The environment agency says that it is between 7-8 degrees all yearround in the reserve and that ‘winter weather and frost can occur any time of the year’.. Be prepared for everything and check the Icelandic Meteorological Office website.
Things to Do in Fjallabak Nature Reserve
Soak in the Landmannalaugar Hot Springs
Nothing can beat this after climbing all day in the mountains. On a cold day the warmth of the steam in combination with the cool water make for a great place to relax and stay warm. I probably won‘t remember this as it was on a day when I climbed in the rain after a long cold windy walk with aching legs and then watched the steam race up those coloured mountains. Bring a towel and a large bag to hold your clothes as the facilities are a little basic and the wind does his own thing.
Hike Brennisteinsalda and Bláhnúkur
Reds, yellows and greens streak Brennisteinsalda, The “Sulfur Wave” and steaming vents are just below the bottom. The loop is medium and it takes a couple of hours. Your nose will warn you before the vents: the foul fumes.
Bláhnúkur, the ‘Blue Peak’ is a brief, but very steep scramble up volcanic scree slope and the reward is a panoramic view over the Landmannalaugar area. I reached the summit and paused, spinning slowly for a panoramic record of my time there. None of the shots came out, despite the effort.
Take on the Laugavegur Trail
This is the epic. The Laugavegur is about 55 km walk from Landmannalaugar to Thorsmork. Most people hike it in four days, camping overnight in mountain huts along the way. You trek across obsidian fields, pass steaming geothermal zones, ford streams,and finally reach the verdant valleys of Thorsmork.
All honesty: I only hiked one segment in Iceland during my first visit (Trail 1, I think), and I was green with envy while watching backpackers who had packed longer gear that was ten times the size I shoved in my pack. Book a cabin at the hiker‘s hut well in advance, they go fast four months before. The animal Icelandic (Fermapélag Íslands) own the hiker‘s huts, and you must bring your own sleeping bag (they do not supply blankets or sleeping bags).
Visit Ljótipollur
Sure other is the name and it‘s false with the most unfair names in the whole of iceland. This crater lake is created in a dark red volcano and the distinction between the dark red container and the blue-green water is amazing. It is a short walk and is one of the most underrated stops in the reserve.
Explore Eldgjá
There are many a guide mentioning Eldgjá, which translates as ‘Fire Canyon’ as the largest volcanic canyon in the world. Guide to Iceland state it measures around 40 km long, up to 600 m wide and at its deepest level is 270 m deep, first erupted in 939 AD. From the viewpoints you can gain an appreciation of both the size such spectacular wonders reach, and our own insignificance as a race! The track runs along the canyon and as is knows the waterfalls of Ófærufoss, is hidden away between the canyon walls.
Safety and Reserve Rules
The Rules of theReserveKh:P22B3.14.2 Once a pilot has passed the B1.1 they then move onto the ‘Rules of theReserve‘there is a massive set of rules that cover all areas of parachuting.
Fjallabak is fragile, and the regulations serve to protect it. The Environment Agency of Iceland asks visitors not to stray from the marked trails, trample the plants, disturb the wildlife, build cairns, interfere with the hot pools nor bring your rubbish home with you. The use of a drone (model aircraft) is prohibited in the area and can only be granted a permit between June 15-September 15.
Conditions can change quickly, and the further up in the mountains you go, the worse the mobile reception becomes. The official guide to safe travel in Iceland, Safetravel.is, run by Iceland’s search and rescue organisation ICE-SAR, has an ultra cheap app that allows you to send your position via GPS to the emergency 112 number, and one of the best and most sensible precautions you can take is to leave a travelsafe with someone who can call the authorities if you don’t return. Call 112 in an emergency.
What to Pack for Fjallabak
Picture the “out layers and waterproofs” picture and you are 80% there. The real waterproofs jacket and trousers, warm base layers, worn climbing shoes, river crossing water shoes, swim suit and quick dry towel, paper maps, battery pack and a lot of snack food and water. There are very few luxuries so prepare as if you are more self sufficient than you think you are.
Mistakes I Made (So You Don‘t Have To)
Yes I did take too much for the weather. I packed a “waterproof” jacket, which actually was water resistant what a difference.
Not one I stopped into the night before. A ford I successfully crossed on Tuesday was much deeper on Wednesday.
Perhaps I bit off more than I could chew this time. Known as the forgiving wilderness of the island, relaxed pace and sipping coffee on a hillside when I wasn’t in a hurry proved to be a good experience.
What makes for the success of Fjallabak Nature Reserve?
The actual short answer is: yes.
Longer answer: You have to decide what you want from Iceland. If you prefer endless roads with barely a bump on the tarmac, followed by a warm shop every now and then, you’ll find the highlands a world away. But if you’re wanting to be humbled in the presence of something so old and so powerful, then you’re in the right place. Fjallabak made me slow down and, for some unknown reason, also made me bolder than I thought I was capable of – just a month before I wouldn’t have dared cross a river.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are these two the same? Fjallabak and Landmannalaugar?
Close. Though Landmannalaugar is the most famous from the reserve, Fjallabak is much larger than it and has ‘must-see’ destinations like Eldgjá or Ljótipollur.
Is Fjallabak accessible by 4×4?
Certainly, if you have a driving. The approach to the mountain is all F-roads and big 4×4 s. If you are not driving yourself then take the highland bus or join guided tour.
Now. When will the roads to Fjallabak open?
Typically from mid-June to the first week of July (although snowmelt can be a little longer), and they are typically closed by early-to-mid September. Road conditions can vary; for up-to-date information see road.is.
Is there parking at Landmannalaugar?
Just for those driving on a 2026 reservation only if you‘re driving yourself in the busy season, June 20 through September 13 from 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM you needed to book via Parka August 20. Check your slots for the year you’re planning to travel.
Can I practise flying a drone in the Fjallabak?
Permission needed only in the summer time. Icelandic Environment Agency are required for the 15 June till the 15 September.
Final Thoughts
You have come this far, so why not go one step further and plan your next trip! Well done! Continue.
Hard, yes. But I promise, Fjallabak isn‘t at all easy in Iceland, so you will never forget it. You‘ve earned every view, you‘ll remember the work long after you forget the conveniences. Road check, layer up, respect the rivers and take the time just to sit, gaze and be amazed. And take a huge amount of food!
Official Resources and Further Reading
Two official sources are worth bookmarking before you go:
- Fjallabak Nature Reserve : It mentions the size of the site, its history as a protected area and provides information on access, climate and rules.
- Road.is : The web page provides current details on roads. The New Zealand road user supplies the information on the condition of the highland F-roads are listed open or closed, for instance.
